Monday 7 October 2013

Micro Worms - Live food for Betta fish fry



Micro Worms – Live food for newly hatched betta fry

 

Microworms (Panagrellus redivivus) are tiny white colored worms which are widely used by Aquarists and betta hobbyists as feed for the newly hatched betta fish fry.

 

Size

They are 50 Microns in diameter and just over one millimeter in length. Because of this size, they are ideal for many species of newly hatched fish fry.  They are barely visible to the naked eyes. But can be easily cultured at home.

 

Culturing micro worms

They live in room temperature over a substrate of Porridge or bread with a little bit of moisture content. Micro worms can be cultured in airtight plastic containers. This will avoid other insects and predators like rats, ants, and mites from entering the container. But the container should be opened at least once in 2 days to add fresh air and to release the fouling smell.  Pls wear a mask while you do this and do not open the container while you are inside your home- trust me it really smells bad.

Harvesting and Feeding to your Fry

Harvesting micro worm is simple. I use an ear bud to touch the upper surfaces of the container or lid where the worms crawl up, and then dip the bud in the Betta fry tank water. This leaves out helps to keep the water cleaner. Few people rinse a drop of the bread / oat substrate before feeding to the fry, However still there are higher chances of fouling the water in the betta fry tank and that will lead to mass die out of the fry.

 

When to feed Micro worms to the Betta fry?

Once the fry start swimming freely and they have consumed their egg sack nutrition, they will start looking for feed. Typically this happens on the 4-5th day after the eggs are hatched. At this time the fry start feeding on live micro-organisms like micro  worms, infusoria. This is the right time to start feeding Micro worms to the betta fish fry.

 


Maintaining the culture:
Run at least 2 cultures in parallel so that if you happen to loose one, another will help. Kepp the container lid properly shut, so that no predators, insects or rats enter inside / tamper the culture. This will lead you to losing the culture. Open the lid and add small quantities of bread or oat meal that can be consumed by the worms in 5-7 days. Add a little bit of baking yeast. They develop faster by feeding on yeast. Change the culture and start new very 15 days to ensure you have a fresh culture going all the time. Last but not least, keep it out of reach of children.
 

Thursday 19 September 2013

Grindal Worms - Live food for Bettas


I have combined my own experience and some info from various websites and fellow hobbyists to put together this article. Hope this would be useful.


Any Suggestions and comments are welcome


What are Grindal worms?

Grindal Worms are the preferred feast to Bettas and other tropical fish varieties

Grindal worm (Enchytraeus buchholzi) are cultured by aquarists as a fish food. Grindal Worm are a popular forms of live food cultured by aquarists. They are used for conditioning tropical fish before spawning, or for young fast growing fish. Some aquarists feel that fish fed exclusively on Grindal worms become obese due to the fat content of the worms. However, the problem may lie more with overfeeding with the worms, rather that the fat content of the worms.

Grindal Worms are one of the smallest species of the genus Enchytraeus (adults grow p to 1/2 inches) in length. They are hermaphroditic, with each individual having both male and female reproductive organs. One worm mates with another individual and each fertilize the other. The worms exchange sperm cells during copulation and eggs are laid in transparent cocoons. Each cocoon produced by young adults contains many eggs; cocoons from mature adults produce about 20 to 30 eggs. As the culture density increases, the reproductive rate levels off. You may need to harvest them or move them to a bigger container.

Temperature


Grindalworms reproduce normally at room temperature. As the temperature begins to rise or fall below this range; their production rate will decline. Growth has been reported to occur more rapidly at the higher end of the range.

Soil characteristics


Grindalworms will grow in any kind of light loam soil of such a character that it does not easily harden when dry, while on the other hand it should not be sandy. Potting mix obtainable from most garden supply stores should be adequate. Choose a good quality mix as some potting soils contain a lot of coarse material in them. Leaf mold and humus are excellent additives that will improve the soil significantly. Some of the best mixes are those that have been designed for growing seedlings. These are generally very fine and hold moisture well, but remain loose. Whichever soil you choose, ensure that it doesn’t contain any chemical fertilizers, sterilizers, fungicides, pesticides and other man made chemicals or contaminants, as these additives will kill the worms.

After a period of six to nine months, the soil texture will begin to break down due to the activity of the worms, and the soil will become very acidic. This inhibits the production of worms, leaving you with only adult worms. To maintain your culture, the old soil should be removed and fresh soil placed in the box. The culture can be divided into several boxes at this time, as it is a good idea to have more than one culture in operation. You can transfer most of the worms by collecting from the old box and placing them in the new box. Another simple method to replace an old culture is to scoop away the top 2~3 cm of soil with most of the worms and gently mix it into fresh, moist soil in a new box.

Getting the culture started


The next step is to get your starter culture. These are often available from aquarium stores, live foods suppliers or from a fellow hobbyist. Once you have your starter culture, empty the contents on top of the media. Sprinkle a small amount of food over the surface of the soil and spray with water. Place the soil cover on the surface, put the lid on and move the box to an area that will stay between 15-24°C. For best results, keep the culture in a cool dark area. If necessary, a refrigerator with its thermostat turned up can be used. Allow the culture to stand undisturbed for at least 7 days to allow your Grindalworms to propagate.

Culturing Containers


Grindal worms will usually not survive in acid soils (i.e. < pH 5). Experience has shown that shallow plastic boxes work best. Typical worm boxes are 4 to 15 inches long, 2 to 12 inches wide and no more than 4 inches deep. In any case the use of several small cultures rather than a large one is advisable. Simple boxes made of pine or plywood are generally preferable to plastic, Styrofoam, or other man made materials because the joints allow better drainage and aeration of the soil.

Fill the box about two-third full with your chosen soil mix. The surface of the soil should be level and, not too firmly, to leave no lumps above to dry or mold. Afterwards, the soil must be moisturized until it’s reasonably damp, allowing any excess water to drain. There should be sufficient moisture to allow free movement of the worms but not enough to bring them to the surface except as they may congregate on the under side of the piece of glass resting on the surface of the soil.

However, the current trend for culturing Grindal worms is to use small individual flat plastic food containers stored in controlled atmosphere, which can be maintained at the desired temperature. This not only provides the ideal temperature, but it also keeps unwanted pests out of the culture.

The culture must be covered to block out light and keep out predators. Ants, beetles,Fruit flies and other insects that will feed either on the worms or the food. A secure lid and careful placement of the culture box will prevent such pests. An inner soil cover is recommended to keep the soil surface from drying out. Any flat material that can be pressed lightly onto the surface of the soil will serve as a cover such as a thin piece of scrap glass cut smaller than the surface area of the soil. Leave a border of about 1/2 inch of soil exposed to the air. The collection of moisture at the cover attracts the worms, making it an ideal place to feed them. By attracting the worms to the surface for feeding, it will be easier to collect them to feed to your fishes.

 

 

Harvesting

Put a plastic or Glass piece on top of the feed area, so that the worms stick to the lower surface of the glass piece, which can be taken out and cleaned / rinsed with water several times to remove any remaining feed and dirt, before feeding to your fishes




 

Feeding :

Grindal worms will eat just about anything organic. Apiarists feed their worms vegetable based foods such as plant material, oatmeal, bread soaked in milk, wheat flour, cereal, mashed potato and dozens of other similar foods. They will even eat flake and pelleted fish foods, dry dog and cat food, if they are pre-soaked beforehand. There are many opinions as to what is the best feed, i.e.:

  • White Bread
  • Oats
  • Vegetables
  • Fruits
  • Fish feed pellets
  • Baby foods rich in protien
  • Dog or cat foods rich in protein
  • A rotation or combination of all of the above would give a balanced diet to them which in turn will reflect in your fish’s health, growth and color.

Frequency and quantity of feeding:

Feed small amounts that your worms consume daily.You will need to inspect the culture for food levels two or three times a week. If the food is gone, then increase the amount of food given. If food remains, then remove the excess and reduce the amount provided.

 

Grindal worms should not be fed too heavily at first because surplus food tends to attract mites, fungal growth, and bacterial contamination. You will have to regulate the amount of food offered during the first month until the culture stabilizes. Replenish the food supply, as needed (ideally every three to four days). If the food supply is not entirely consumed between feedings, you are adding too much food for the worm population.

Thursday 9 May 2013

Happy bettas flaring -videos


 Just watch this musturd Gas Betta Flaring

 



Musturd Gas / Dragon scale HM betta


Red Copper Dragon HM betta 
 

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Monday 22 April 2013

Betta fish care - FAQ

I intend to share simple and most vital information here which would help most of the beginners. I welcome all to post your questions here or private message us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/Bettamadness so that we can revert to you with relevant suggestions.

A happy Half moon plakat betta flaring


The above image downloaded from net


1. How much space do a betta need?

Typically bettas need less space when compared to other fishes. If the water quantity is too small they tend to jump out of the tanks and you would find them dead.

I would suggest a 1.5 to 2 gallon ( 4 to 8 ltr)  tank for them to be healthy and less affected by parasites or diseases.

Bettas like planted aquarium with a few hideouts. free swimming space will help protect bettas from fins diseases.

2. What is the water quality requirements for a betta?

In my experience, there are 3 key things that needs to be monitored for bettas

  • PH of 6.5 to 7.5
  • Temperature  - 76 to 82 Deg F or 24 to 27 Deg C
  • TDS ( Total dissolved Salts) - 30 to 100 ppm



3. Who are the tank mates for a betta?

Although a few variety of fishes can be kept along with the bettas, They like to swim alone.

4. What to feed bettas?

I give my bettas a balanced feed which is a mix of betta micro pellets, Tettra bits, Frozen dried blood worms, mosquito  larvae & grindal worms. You can also give all live worms rich in protein like blood worms, tubifex worms etc...

The commercial micro pellets are good because they come with a mix of most of the required minerals and proteins required for betta health and growth. They also help in enhancing their colour.

5. How long do bettas live?

Well, If kept in proper care and diet, i have seen them living up to 3 years.

6. How big would the bettas grow?

I have a one year old betta male and it is already 3 1/4 long ". A normal betta well fed can grow up to 4 (from from head to end of tail) ". I have read that giant bettas can grow up to 7".

7. How fast can they grow to an adult stage?

They can grow in to an adult in 4-6 months time and would be ready for breeding.

8.  How frequently should we change water?

A common opinion all over is that bettas need 10-20% water change every alternate day. 50% water change once a week.

 However,

  • If they are in a planted aquarium
  • With over flow filter / sponge filters
  • Fed right amount of food such that no food is left over in the tank ( often the remains of food contaminate the tank water)

Then  you can change 10 to 20% water every week. This is my experience.

Happy fish keeping !

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Online Betta Store

These are some of the pics of half moon bettas that are available for sale. Pls contact 9842205616  @ coimbatore, India and 9900057855 @ Bangalore, India if interested...



Few left in the batch



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Half Moon and Over Half Moon Bettas


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How I started keeping and Breeding Bettas

 
All the time in the middle of my busy work life, I have been in search of a healthy hobby to pursue which would allow me to relax when I return home without too much of burden.

Everything I thought about needed big space, time and investment. It is then my childhood hobby came to my mind "Bettas". The very idea of keeping and breeding bettas excited me a lot....
 
In the coming pages, I intend to share my knowledge, interest and passion with the like minded people. and learn more from all of you.
 


1. HAlf MOON BETTAS (HMs).
 
 
 
A  true halfmoon betta is one which forms an almost complete full circle where the dorsal fin (top), anal fin (bottom) and caudal fin (tail) overlap each other and forms a complete circle. Some may even classify this as a "fullmoon" betta. The halfmoon betta's caudal fin should spread more than 180 degress when flaring and the best halfmoon bettas are those with both edge of caudal fin as straight as possible. The last condition is perhaps the most difficult to fulfil by most breeders since majority of the so-called halfmoon bettas have "rounded" edges and corners at the caudal fin.
 


2. OVER HALF MOON (OHM) or FULL MOON
 
The Halfmoon betta's caudal fin (tail) spreads a full 180 degrees. If the tail spread is over 180 degrees the fish  then can be considered "Over Halfmoon" or "OHM".
 
 
 
A picture would speak Thousand words, Just enjoy the pics these are downloaded pics..........



OHM Super Red Male Betta



Green mask Red Dragon
 

Red Flame Full Moon


 
Orange Male OHM
 
 
 
 
 
 
 




Blue Butterfly OHM